A COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE TO

stone shapes

Diamonds and gemstones come in various shapes, each with unique characteristics that influence their appearance, brilliance, and overall aesthetic.

cut vs. shape

While often confused, cut and shape are distinct concepts:

  • Cut: Refers to how well the stone's facets are cut and arranged to create brilliance and sparkle. It’s a quality factor that affects the stone's optical properties.
  • Shape: Refers to the physical form or outline of the stone when viewed from above (such as round, square, or pear). Shape is a matter of style, not quality.

For instance, “round” is a shape, while “excellent cut” is a cut grade. A stone's shape affects its appearance, while the cut affects its sparkle and how well it plays with light.

popular shapes

round

The round brilliant cut is the most popular and timeless stone shape. It consists of 57-58 facets that maximize brilliance, fire, and scintillation.

The round brilliant cut was developed in 1919 by Marcel Tolkowsky, a mathematician and gem cutter. He used precise calculations to optimize the angles and proportions for maximum light reflection, creating the ideal cut that remains the standard today.

Its shape and facet arrangement make it the most brilliant of all diamond shapes.

Round brilliants tend to be the most expensive shape due to high demand and significant rough diamond wastage during cutting.

When shopping for round brilliants, prioritize cut when evaluating the 4 Cs; a well-cut round diamond reflects the most light. Round brilliants tend to hide imperfections and color well, making them forgiving in clarity and color grades.

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oval

Oval cuts are elongated with a symmetrical, balanced shape. It features 56-58 facets and is similar to a round brilliant in light performance.

The oval cut was created in the 1950s by Lazare Kaplan, a renowned Russian diamond cutter who was celebrated for his ability to salvage flawed diamonds into stunning shapes, and the oval cut became one of his signature innovations.

Ovals appear larger per carat weight and create an illusion of longer fingers due to their elongated surface area, and offer excellent brilliance while being less costly than round diamonds.

When shopping for ovals, prioritize proportions and symmetry to avoid the "bow-tie effect" (a dark shadow across the center due to poor light distribution). Color and inclusions are typically more visible near the rounded ends.

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princess

The princess cut is a square or rectangular-shaped stone with sharp, uncut corners. It features 58 brilliant facets that enhance its fire and brilliance, offering a contemporary alternative to rounds.

The princess cut gained popularity in the 1970s, but it traces its origins to the earlier "profile cut" developed by Arpad Nagy in 1961. Its modern version, perfected in the 1980s, was designed to maximize brilliance while retaining a significant portion of the rough diamond.

Princess cuts exhibit a unique blend of brilliance and fire, dispersing light in various colors.

When shopping for princess cuts, prioritize proportions; the sharp facets of a princess cut create intense sparkle, but poor symmetry can make the diamond appear dull or dark.

The sharp corners are prone to chipping; a protective prong setting is essential.

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emerald

The emerald cut is a rectangular or square-shaped stone with step-cut facets that create a hall-of-mirrors effect. Known for its elegance, the emerald cut emphasizes the stone's natural transparency and clarity.

The emerald cut originated from techniques used for cutting emerald gemstones in the 15th century, designed to reduce pressure during cutting and protect against chipping. Its geometric style rose to popularity during the Art Deco era.

The elongated facets of the emerald cut create an illusion of longer fingers.

When shopping for emeralds, prioritize clarity when evaluating the 4 C's; the large, open facets of an emerald cut make inclusions more visible than other shapes.

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radiant

Radiant stones are rectangular or square-shaped with trimmed corners and a brilliant-cut facet pattern.

They combine emerald cuts' elegance with the rounds' sparkle, offering versatility and brilliance.

The radiant cut was developed in 1977 by Henry Grossbard, who wanted to create a cut combining the sparkle of a brilliant diamond with the elegance of step cuts.

Radiant cuts have a vibrant and lively appearance due to their brilliant faceting style, while their trimmed corners reduce the risk of chipping compared to princess cuts.

When shopping for radiants, look for excellent symmetry and good light distribution for maximum brilliance.

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cushion

Cushions are square or rectangular with rounded corners, resembling a pillow shape.

The cushion cut evolved from the old mine cut, a predecessor to many modern diamond cuts. These stones were cut by hand, emphasizing weight retention over light performance due to the lack of advanced tools. They were designed to sparkle under candlelight, giving them a romantic, soft glow that was ideal for the 1700-1800s.

Facets can be found in various arrangements, from antique cushion cuts with larger facets to modern cushion cuts with smaller, more numerous facets.

There are two main styles of cushion cuts, brilliant that maximizes sparkle with smaller, tighter facets, and crushed ice, which has a fragmented appearance, creating a scintillating, mosaic-like sparkle.

When shopping for cushions, look for well-proportioned stones with minimal light leakage to maximize brilliance.

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marquise

Marquise cuts are elongated with pointed ends.

The marquise cut was commissioned by King Louis XV of France, who wanted a diamond shape resembling the lips of his mistress, Marquise de Pompadour. Its name and elegant design reflect its royal origins.

Due to their elongated shape, they maximize carat weight, offering a more prominent appearance for their carat size, while also creating the illusion of longer fingers.

When shopping for marquises, focus on proper proportions and symmetry to minimize the "bow-tie effect" and maximize brilliance.

The pointed tips are prone to chipping and a setting that protects the tips with prongs or a bezel is recommended.

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pear

Pear-shaped stones feature one pointed end and one rounded end, creating a hybrid of the round and marquise cuts, offering both brilliance and elegance.

The pear cut was developed in the 15th century by Flemish polisher Lodewyk van Bercken, who invented the diamond polishing wheel, revolutionizing diamond cutting.

Pear cuts offer an elongated appearance that flatters the finger while maximizing brilliance.

When shopping for a pear cut, prioritize symmetry and proportions. Pears require precise cutting to achieve symmetry and balance between the rounded and pointed ends.

Similar to the oval and marquise cut, the pear cut is prone to the bow-tie effect.

Consider a setting with a prong that covers the pointed tip to prevent the stone from chipping.

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asscher

The Asscher cut is a square-shaped stone with step-cut facets similar to emerald cuts but with a smaller table and higher crown. It offers a sophisticated, Art Deco-inspired appearance.

The Asscher cut was created in 1902 by Joseph Asscher, a Dutch jeweler renowned for cutting the Cullinan diamond. It became a hallmark of Art Deco jewelry in the 1920s.

Asscher cuts have a vintage-inspired charm and a clean, geometric look that enhances clarity and brilliance.

Known for their hall-of-mirrors effect, which showcases clarity and emphasizes the stone's transparency.

When shopping for an Asscher cut, prioritize clarity when evaluating the 4 C's; the large, open facets make inclusions more visible than other shapes.

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heart

Heart stones are a symbol of love and romance. They feature a distinctive heart shape with a pointed bottom and rounded lobes.

Heart-shaped diamonds were first mentioned in the 16th century, with notable historical appearances in royal collections, symbolizing love and devotion.

This shape requires skilled craftsmanship to achieve a balanced and symmetrical appearance, emphasizing brilliance and fire.

Symmetry is essential for a heart shape to look balanced and appealing. Ensure even curves and a well-defined cleft.

Consider a setting with a prong that covers the pointed tip to prevent the stone from chipping.

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old mine

Old mine, also known as old miner, cuts feature a cushion-like shape with a square or rectangular outline and rounded corners.

Developed in the 1700s, the old mine cut was the precursor to the modern cushion cut. The shape is named after diamonds sourced from “old mines” in India and Brazil before South Africa became the dominant diamond supplier.

This shape is cut by hand with less emphasis on symmetry, leading to a soft, vintage glow. The shape features a high crown, a small table, and a large, open culet (the flat facet at the bottom of the diamond).

Designed to sparkle under candlelight, this cut was popular during the Georgian and Victorian eras.

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old European

The old European cut features a round shape with a high crown, a small table, and a large culet.

With 58 facets, the old European cut is similar to the modern round brilliant cut, but with less precision. Cutters prioritize depth over spread, resulting in a smaller face-up appearance compared to modern cuts.

This car was popular from the late 19th century through the early 20th century, particularly during the Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco eras.

A direct predecessor of the modern round brilliant, it was cut with similar proportions but lacked the precise angles made possible by modern technology.

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popular accent stone shapes

baguette

Baguettes feature a rectangular shape with 14 step-cut facets and a flat top.

The baguette cut emerged during the 1920s Art Deco era, reflecting the clean lines and symmetry that defined the movement. Its name comes from the French word for “stick” or “rod.”

They are a popular choice as side stones in engagement rings, or as accent stones in wedding rings and jewelry. They complement step-cut center stones like emerald or Asscher cuts.

tapered baguette

Tapered baguettes are a variation of the baguette cut with a narrower end, creating a wedge-like shape with symmetrical step-cut facets.

This shape became popular during the mid-20th century, particularly in retro and classic engagement ring designs, where their unique shape provided balance and sophistication.

They are perfect for framing elongated center stones like emerald, oval, or marquise cuts, leading the eye toward the center stone.

trapezoid

Trapezoids feature one pair of parallel sides and one pair of slanted sides. They can be step-cut (similar to emerald cut) for a sleek and elegant look or brilliant-cut for added sparkle.

Trapezoid stones gained prominence during the Art Deco era of the 1920s and 1930s, when geometric and symmetrical designs were popular.

A popular choice for three stone designs, this shape complements elongated center stones by adding symmetry and enhancing the overall design.

half moon

Half moon stones are shaped like a crescent or half-circle, with a flat straight edge on one side and a rounded, curved edge on the other.

Half moon stones became popular during the Art Deco era, where symmetry and clean geometric lines were hallmarks of jewelry design. Their crescent-like shape made them a favorite for adding softness to bold architectural styles.

This shape adds symmetry and a soft, flowing aesthetic while offering a unique look that enhances elongated center stones.